July 17, 2026 · 4 min read
Photo by David Vives on Unsplash
Nestled in the heart of Asturias, Oviedo is a captivating starting point for those embarking on the Camino de Santiago, particularly the Primitivo route. This city is not only rich in history and culture but also offers a warm welcome to pilgrims. Whether you’re setting off on your journey or taking a well-deserved break, Oviedo has plenty to offer.
Oviedo’s history is steeped in significance, especially in relation to the Camino de Santiago. The city has ancient roots, with its origins dating back to the early Middle Ages. One of the most remarkable aspects of Oviedo is its collection of Pre-Romanesque churches, which are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. These architectural marvels, such as San Julián de los Prados and Santa María del Naranco, showcase the unique style of Asturian architecture and provide insight into the region's early Christian history. Exploring these sites can be a rewarding experience, as they reflect the spiritual journey many pilgrims have undertaken for centuries.
Beyond its historic churches, Oviedo is filled with charming streets, bustling plazas, and delightful parks. The city’s cathedral, the Catedral de San Salvador, is a must-see. Its impressive Gothic architecture and stunning interior make it a central point for pilgrims. Don’t forget to visit the Holy Chamber, which houses the relics of Saint Vincent, the patron saint of Asturias.
If you have some time to spare, wander through the old town, where you can admire the vibrant buildings, quaint shops, and local artisans. The Mercado El Fontán is a great place to experience local life and perhaps pick up some regional specialties. If you're a fan of art, the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias showcases an impressive collection of both Spanish and international pieces.
No visit to Oviedo is complete without indulging in some of the local cuisine. Asturias is known for its flavorful dishes, and Oviedo is the perfect place to sample them. One of the region's most famous dishes is fabada asturiana, a hearty bean stew that will warm you up after a long day's walk. You can find this and other local specialties in various restaurants throughout the city.
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For a casual dining experience, head to the traditional cider houses, or "sidrerías." Here, you can enjoy the local cider, known as "sidra," which is traditionally poured from a height to aerate it. Pair it with some tapas for a truly authentic experience. La Taberna del Zurdo and Casa de la Biela are popular spots where you can relish the flavors of Asturias.
When it comes to accommodation, Oviedo offers a range of options to suit different budgets and preferences. For pilgrims, albergues are the most economical choice. Albergue La Casona de la Rasa and Albergue El Caminante provide cozy beds and a welcoming atmosphere, making them ideal for those traveling on a budget.
If you prefer more comfort, there are also several hotels in the city. The Hotel de la Reconquista, a historic building with elegant interiors, is a great option if you want to splurge a little. Regardless of where you choose to stay, it’s advisable to book in advance, especially during the peak pilgrimage season.
As you prepare for your journey, here are a few practical tips to consider. First, make sure to grab your pilgrim's credential at the Cathedral of San Salvador. This document is essential for collecting stamps along your Camino and ultimately receiving the Compostela certificate upon completing your pilgrimage.
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Oviedo is well-connected by public transport, so getting there is easy. The train station is just a short walk from the city center, and buses frequently run from major cities in Spain. If you're continuing on the Primitivo route, it’s a well-marked trail that offers stunning views of the Asturian countryside, so be sure to pack your walking shoes and a good camera.
Once you’re ready to embark on your Camino journey, the Primitivo route offers a unique experience. The first leg to Grado is about 25 kilometers and is characterized by lush landscapes and charming villages. Make sure to take your time and enjoy the beauty around you. Along the way, you’ll have opportunities to meet fellow pilgrims and share stories, which is one of the most enriching aspects of the Camino.
Oviedo is not just a starting point; it’s a place where the spirit of pilgrimage is alive and well. Whether you’re marveling at the ancient churches, savoring local delicacies, or sharing stories with fellow travelers, you’ll find that Oviedo has a special charm that will stay with you long after you’ve moved on.
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